The World Cup will be the first time most westerners will be exposed to the great cities of the Volga – and their tense tug-of-war over identity
The Alexander Nevsky is a dingy time machine that bears 196 passengers – war veterans bound for the city formerly known as Stalingrad side by side with boozy weekenders – down the Volga river like a floating Soviet sanatorium.
It was built in East Germany in 1957 by the shipbuilders of Wismar, who sent 49 comfort-class riverboats to their new brothers across the Soviet bloc.
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